Wild goose recipes get a bad rap. Goose meat is “often, yet unfairly, maligned,” as my friend Mark Norquist of Modern Carnivore likes to say. Or there’s the joke, “How to properly cook a goose,” which ...

Goose for me always seemed like a Christmas feast from days of yore, something special, slightly old-fashioned, and honestly, a little terrifying to prepare. Even though I love using goose fat for ...