Three hours: that’s how long it takes Shelita Buffet to get ready. There are false eyelashes to glue and cheekbones to contour; there’s a neon-bright wig to preen and a sequined pink leotard to tug on ...

The surface of my tea ripples, threatening to breach the lip of the white porcelain cup as it wiggles in micro-measures on a saucer atop the foldout table in my cosy Indian Pacific cabin. At points, ...